The Pahalwans of Tulsi Ghat.

The traditional style of mud wrestling or Kushti is an ancient sport of India and also the oldest sport in the world. I always had a wish to visit a traditional Akhara and witness a match of Kushti between the Pahalwans. So in my last trip I was lucky enough to visit the famous Akhara of Tulsi ghat where I got an opportunity to see some Pahalwans in action and also got a chance to interact with a few of them. 

Just after a very peaceful and serene early morning boat ride I started walking towards tulsi ghat which was about 10 minutes walk from the place where the boatman has dropped me. The Akhara is just situated a few steps up from the right side of ghat. As I entered the Akhara premise the first person I met was Sia Ram Ji who is 62 years old and he is the Ustad (Coach) and also the caretaker of the Akhara.

Sia Ram Ji oiling himself

I had a few minutes of conversation with Sia Ram Ji while he was tying up his Langot and oiling himself before stepping inside the Akhara. He said unlike the modern gym here in the Akhara every senior is a trainer to the junior Pahalwans and also he shared the importance of oil massage which every Pahalwan does before stepping inside the ring. Amidst all these conversations I saw the young Pahalwans working out in traditional style with mostly wooden exercise equipments and the experienced ones warming up and getting ready for the match.

A young Pahalwan Working out

A Pahalwan with wooden exercise equipment

Potrait of a Pahalwan

The match of Kushti starts.

Match in progress

Some more moves.

The Pahalwan showing some serious move.

A Pahalwan applying soil on the body of another Pahalwan.

During the Kushti match the pahalwans often applied soil on eachother's body so that they can get a better grip on their body while playing the wrestling moves. And yes the soil inside the ring is not just soil, it is mixed with ground neem, oil, turmeric and curd which makes them very therapeutic for the skin. 

The last move of the match

Meet Bhanu a Young and very skilled wrestler.

While I was busy taking some nice shots and enjoying the kushti match, Bhanu who has just came out of ring asked me if I can show him the photos I have clicked. I just smiled and passed him the camera. Bhanu saw his own photographs and said he has put on a lot of weight as he had left wrestling for 3 years. Bhanu runs a small shop and has started wrestling at the age of 15 and left when he was 17. Now again he has started practicing it. I saw Bhanu in the ring and he was one of the most skilled and strong wrestler I saw there.

Potrait of Bhanu Pahalwan.

This is the 2nd part of story from my recent trip to Varanasi a lot more coming soon.